R.I.P. OCC? Thoughts on failed makeup brands, how brands make a comeback, & predicting who's next

photo from makeup artist Kevin James Bennett

OCC, maker of the OG liquid lipstick Lip Tars and cult classic John Doe creme color concentrate, appears to be out of business. They recently shut down their website and social media after deeply discounting their online merchandise. The company has not confirmed the news, but it isn't a surprise to anyone in the makeup news sphere that OCC has been in trouble.

Tarte Rainforest of the Sea radiance drops liquid highlighter review, swatches & TMO

Tarte's newly released extension of the Rainforest of the Sea line is their radiance drops liquid highlighter. My review of the Rainforest of the Sea foundation is here. I've been on a no buy (aspiring, in reality is a low buy / replacement only buy) but I have lots of unused Sephora points. I saw this as a 100 point perk and wanted to try it out!

If you're here for a TMO (talk me out of it!), just skim on down to the TMO header!

The Basics

• Dropper style packaging - see the pooling right under the dropper and the residue smeared onto my hand from my fingers to behind my rings? Don't travel with this and be careful with the bottom of the dropper when you pull it out of the bottle. 
• Super super runny liquid
• Only available in one shade, a clear liquid base with gold
• Pieces of shimmer not metallic sheen or natural pearl 
• You MUST shake this aggressively, the clear base will somewhat come out of suspension with the shimmer particles 
• $30 for 1 ounce / 30 mL

Swatches

See that swatch dripping down the sides of my hand? I had about .002 seconds to take a photo before it dripped off onto my vanity...

Based on the internet and the packaging, I was expecting a pearly beige shade, but surprise, it's GOLD! In indirect light it looks almost like a cooler yellow gold, but in direct sun the gold flecks are very brassy/warm. On my cool toned skin, it looks bizarre in direct sun.

Let's compare it to a few other highlights I have.

2017 favorites

Happy new year and happy 2018! I wanted to share my top 10 favorites  of 2017 with you.

10. NYX Away We Glow in 08 moon glow - I ran out of my beloved Becca shimmering skin perfector in pearl and replaced it with NYX for two reasons: 1) I'm a grad student on a budget, and more importantly, 2) There is no known universe where I could finish a full size shimmering skin perfector. The mini spotlight size took me 2 years! The NYX isn't a perfect dupe (not as gel like of a texture, doesn't blend as well over powder), but is 90% there and meets my needs perfectly. Like everyone else on the planet, glowy skin and I were friends all year long.

9. Whole Foods organic lip balm - I went through about a dozen of these in 2017, 50/50 lost vs. used up. I love the honey vanilla version, it moisturizes without irritating my skin and only costs about $3. Sold for life <3

8. Sheer glossy lips - My skin is too dry and I am too impatient for the perfectly carved out lip line and matte liquid lips. I need my skin and lips to feel comfortable and I'm permanently running late, so for me that means tinted lip balm, glosses, and sheer lipsticks I can apply on the bus without a mirror. Some of my favorites: Urban Decay and Too Faced La Creme lipsticks layered over lip balm, Clinique almost lipstick in black honey, Fresh tinted lip balm in rose and petal, and Bite's (discontinued?!) lip gloss in currant.

7. My Japanese brushes - My everyday brushes never fail me and I'm still amazed that some of these brands aren't more popular. Chikuhodo, Hakuhodo, Koyudo, and Mizuho all have some relatively affordable brushes (MAC or MUFE price range) that blow everything else out of the water in terms of quality. I like more natural and sheer looks with powder products, so my soft natural hair brushes deliver. Pictured: Hakuhodo tapered candle 5521, Hakuhodo J521 eyeliner, Chikuhodo Z-5 large eye shader, Mizuho PM11 brow brush, Koyudo 035 medium shader, Hakuhodo K022 blush/powder . I don't think everyone needs these exact brushes, but I do think it is worth buying high quality brushes of which ever shapes you use every day.

6. NARS Laguna - Check out that huge pan! I wear bronzer everyday and Laguna was easily my most reached for this year. Even on my cool toned fair skin, this is never too orange. I don't know how, but Laguna always makes me look healthy and pretty.

New Make Up For Ever $2 refillable palettes (artist face color refillable case) S & XL review

Hi guys, this is going to be a quick post, I wanted to show the new Make Up For Ever $2 palettes. These palettes are designed to be refillable cases for the artist face color range, but I picked up two to use as travel palettes for other depotted makeup. At $2 each (without having to buy the MUFE blushes/bronzer/highlight pans!) they are a great deal.

Small palette / empty single size (magnetic area ~2 1/4 in long x 1 3/8 in wide)

New updates to my "Who Owns Who" post

It's that time again! Every 6 - 9 months, I like to pop back into my blog's most popular Who Owns Who post for updates. 2017 has been a slower year so far for corporate makeup M&A, but we have had some big news. I have also added some brands from comment requests.

Updates to the post include corporate ownership details for: 

• Hourglass
• Burberry
• Milk
• Younique
• Clarins
• Seed (ColourPop, Kylie)

I'm also thinking about a separate post for influencer / instagram / online brand ownership. I've been wondering lately where all of these brands come from and how they get their funding for quick product launches and huge marketing spending - looking at you Juvia's Place, Smith Cosmetics brushes, Storybook Cosmetics, Morphe... If this would be interesting to you or you have any brand suggestions, please leave a comment!

xoxo

How to tell if a blush shade has a warm, cool, or neutral undertone

We read a lot about makeup undertones online, but it can be really tricky figuring out our own undertones and the undertones of our products. I personally find blush to be tricky because blush sneaks up to the THIS IS TOO MUCH line so quickly.

Thing 1: Find your own undertone

My bare skin, photographed in natural light with no edits at all

Wearing foundation, plus neck comparison (I do not blend foundation down my neck)

Thoughts on decluttering, reusing makeup containers, and *actually* using samples

Hello friends! I have talked about my decluttering / simplifying / no-buy journey several times on my blog (see here, here, and here), but today I want to share how it's going and talk about finding creative ways to use what you have.

First up: an update on my decluttering progress & no buy. I pretty much stopped decluttering / simplifying my collection within the last three months because I was satisfied with the state of my collection. Everything I own is something I use and enjoy. Some items only come out to play  seasonally or in certain moods, but that's a-okay by me.

I went about a year-ish on a very minimal purchase streak (an informal no-buy if you will) but I feel like that phase is also over. I no longer think about trying to force myself not to buy or limiting my urge to purchase, I am more naturally skeptical and inclined to ask myself if I *really* *actually* want it. I have purchased a few things lately that I have loved - a sunscreen replacement, a few eyeshadow singles from Essence, a new mascara - but nothing over the top.

I'm on my second year of not making Sephora VIB or Ulta platinum - it felt nice to pass the anniversary of not making the cut. I have also been continuing to reform my social media habits - I don't follow any beauty related stuff on snapchat, pretty much quit instagram, and have continued reforming my youtube subscriptions. I am down to two nail polishes plus a top coat, my favorite red and my favorite nude, which is a HUGE improvement from my previous collection of ~25 polishes. I have also been nurturing my reading and baking habits. I am pleased to announce my currant almond scone habit is still going strong :)

Let's talk about reusing what you have - quite a few of my everyday favorites are items with recycled packaging. If you love a product's packaging, keep on using it, even if you declutter the product inside. Some examples:

Before & after: Tarte rainforest of the sea foundation in porcelain - pale dry skin review & swatches

Tarte Rainforest of the Sea is supposed to be a 12 hour lightweight, water based, full coverage formula with SPF 15. When the new lightest shade Porcelain came out, I was excited to give it a try. I usually try to get foundation samples at Sephora because my skin is sensitive and acne prone, but the dropper format is unhygenic for getting samples.

After trying it for the past few weeks, it is definitely a lightweight fluid, but I don't think it is full coverage. I would rate it a light-medium coverage - building serious coverage would require quite a few layers. I get light coverage with one dropper and medium with three. I could see someone using up 5-6 droppers full of foundation to get maximum possible coverage with this one. The dropper system gets messy, so I wouldn't advise traveling with this.

Swatches

Review & comparison swatches: Giorgio Armani Power Fabric longwear high cover foundation shade 1

I recently went to Sephora looking for a new foundation and the SA recommended a sample of the new Giorgio Armani Power Fabric foundation. I was matched to shade 1, which is the lightest shade in the range and is meant for pink undertones. One my all time favorite foundations is Giorgio Armani Luminous Silk - I have shade 2, but it is a little too dark and yellow for me in the winter.

Swatches

As always, I take swatch pictures in natural light and don't edit the photos at all except to add labels. I like to swatch heavily to show the differences in shade - worn sheerly, all of these work on me. I have fair skin with netural undertones.

The best sunscreen for wearing under makeup - Clinique Bbroad spectrum SPF 30 mineral sunscreen fluid for face review

I recently purchased the new Clinique SPF 30 mineral sunscreen fluid for face and am excited to share my thoughts on it. My previous favorite sunscreen was discontinued (big glare to Paula's Choice) and I have been trying a ton of sunscreen formulas this year. I enjoy the Clinique DDMG and DDML moisturizers, but have hesitated buying Clinique sunscreens in the past because they tend not to publish full ingredients lists online. I decided to go for it anyway, and I'm glad I did!

Affordable Japanese makeup brush - Mizuho PM11 eyebrow brush review

I'm finally getting around to posting a review of my favorite eyebrow brush - the Mizuho #11. I bought this on a whim from CD Japan about a year ago because I was curious about the brand and needed a brow brush. The PM-11 is very affordable (1500 yen, ~$13 USD before taxes & shipping)  and has a pink handle.

About Mizuho (瑞穂) Brushes

Compared to other Japanese artisanal makeup brush brands like Hakuhodo, Koyudo and Chikuhodo, Mizuho is not as well known in the United States. Mizuho brushes are handmade in the Kumano area of Japan. Like many other traditional Japanese brush making companies, Mizuho does sell private label. If you are curious about Japanese brushes, I have reviewed quite a few others on my blog.

The PM series is relatively affordable compared to some of their other lines and features cherry blossom pink handles. They do make other lines with different themes if pink handles don't appeal to you, but I personally think the pink handles are cute.

Fresh Sugar Cream Lip Treatment in Blush & Buff review and swatches

I love Fresh so I was so excited to see the new sugar cream lip treatments pop up in my local Sephora! I got samples of Blush and Buff to try.

I chose Blush because I can't resist mid tone mauve pinks (similar in tone/concept to Buxom Dolly or Bite Currant) and the Sephora SA talked me into a sample of Buff because she said it was the sheer balmy one. I have no idea why they are selling Buff as a sheer balm - it is a strongly pigmented coppery nude.

As you can see, the texture of the Fresh sugar cream lip treatment is thick and goopy. Both of these shades contain shimmer. The texture of the product seems inappropriate for the packaging they chose - these are so thick and pigmented that they should be in liquid lipstick style tube and wand applicators instead of a squeeze lip balm type tube. They are much too pigmented to apply with your fingers or without a mirror.

Swatches
 

Elf Studio Tone Correcting Powder in Cool review & swatches // comparison to Essence All About Matt

I recently ran out of my beloved Essence All About Matt powder, so I decided to play around and try something else this time around. I have heard great things on YouTube about the elf Studio Tone Correcting Powder in Cool, so I gave it a try. I paid $3.99 on the Target website.

Here's the long and the short of it: it is absolutely inferior to my favorite Essence All About Matt. It is also not the worst powder I have ever tried. 

I always keep a touch up powder compact in my commuting tote bag because I get shiny throughout the day. I'm always looking for powders that are pressed in a compact, don't look cakey on the skin, and keep my shine at bay for a few hours at a minimum. Unfortunately, the elf tone correcting powder broke immediately and doesn't keep my skin matte for more than 30 minutes. I'm not particularly rough on my travel bag (I have never broken an Essence All About Matt or L'Oreal True Blend traveling) and I don't have oily skin. The elf studio tone correcting powder didn't cake up on top of foundation, but it also didn't seamlessly melt into the skin the way hd silica powders do.

Haul & Review: Essence The Velvets 05 Taupe Secret / 01 Fluffy Clouds (bonus: Long Lasting Eye Pencil in Hot Chocolate)

I recently ran out of my all time favorite mattifying & touchup powder, Essence's all about matt, so I placed an order on Essence's website. For some reason, the Ulta website doesn't have the new The Velvets eyeshadow line and I was excited to try them out. I chose 01 fluffy clouds and 05 taupe secret.

A quick shoutout to for the Essence US website - a $15 free shipping minimum is great, they shipped quickly, and they threw in a free nail file! As always, I paid for everything myself and Essence has never heard of me.

As far as I can see, you can only buy the Essence The Velvets eyeshadow line on the Essence website in the US. I expected to be able to buy them on the Ulta website, but they aren't listed there.

Essence The Velvets packaging

• The Velvets eyeshadows come in clear acrylic compacts that are thin and easy to store
• I paid $2.49 each
• Each eyeshadow has 2.8 grams of product
• The main ingredients are talc, mica, and corn starch, followed by some other minerals like zinc, dimethicone, pigments, and the usual (and necessary) ingredients to keep everything sanitary and shelf stable
• The Velvets have a matte appearance in the pan and in swatches, but if you look up close they are NOT 100% MATTE! I'm guessing that due to mica being the second ingredient, there is some subtle sheen that shows through in some lights. They look matte on first application, but after a full day of wear or in direct sunlight, you might see some sheen. 
• They have a cute quilted pattern stamped on the top

Swatches of 01 Fluffy Clouds &  05 Taupe Secret

Sephora & Ulta - 2017 Free makeup birthday gifts with swatches

I do this post every year, and I'm so excited about the 2017 free makeup birthday gifts! I love getting makeup freebies, plus I have a February birthday so I'm happy to share swatches & my thoughts early in the year. It's snowing like crazy today in Boston, so no outside pics this year.

Sephora 2017

Sephora has three birthday gift choices for the year of 2017. I saw two available in store in the Boston area. The options are:

1. Tarte Amazonian Clay 12-Hour Blush in Paaarty & Tarteist Creamy Matte Lip Paint in Birthday Suit
2. Caudalie Vinoperfect Radiance Serum and Vinosource Moisturizing Sorbet 
3.  Jack Black Deep Dive Glycolic Facial Cleanser and Clean Break Oil-Free Moisturizer. This one looks like its online only, but let us know if you see it in your local store!  

As always, I did no photo editing so you can see the most accurate color - I only edit to add watermarks and shade labels. The Paaarty blush (why couldn't they just name it Party?!? Tarte makes me feel like a grumbly old lady) is matte and is a peachy nude. A+ for choosing a matte shade, I rarely wear shimmery blushes because they look horrible with pores/skin texture.

For context, I swatched this shade next to some shades you may be familiar with. I threw in Bobbi Brown Pale Pink on the end so you could see it next to an actual cool toned shade for reference. Compared to Tarte Thankful, one of the most basic warm pinks ever, you can see Paaarty is more nude and peachy. NARS Douceur, my favorite nude blush, is more plummy and brown. In case you thought Paaarty was too tan, I swatched NARS Laguna at the other end for reference.

On my fair cool toned skin, Paaarty shows up and looks pretty, but it isn't my favorite. I personally prefer cooler toned pinks, but I could see this shade working well for most fair-light-medium skintones. If you have skin deeper than a medium tan, I doubt this would work at all.

Cover FX custom cover drops N20 - comparison swatches

I'll keep this brief, but I had to share comparison swatches for Cover FX custom cover drops in shade N20. I am late to the custom cover drops hype train, but I really wanted to try them. I went to Sephora to get color matched because I wasn't sure what shade I would be. The guy at Sephora color matched me to N20.

Let me be the first to say that N20 is not my shade and color matching at Sephora is a total crap shoot.

Chanel Poudre Universelle Libre loose powder swatches & review // 20 Clair (translucent 1) on dry pale skin

Basics: 

• $52 for 1 ounce / 30 grams, which is a pretty good price considering that many loose powders contain less grams of product. If you use up loose powders regularly, it pays to shop in price per gram. 
• Comes in a huge mouth jar with a puff. The puff isn't great, I only used it a few times. I love the packaging for home use, but I wouldn't recommend traveling with loose powders.
• This powder is talc, nylon-12, and silica based, making it one of the most finely milled and delicate of the 'traditional' loose powders. The texture is more substantial feeling than the 100% silica powders or corn starch based formulas on the market.
• Soft matte finish, great for setting foundation. Not as good for touchups.
• It can be applied to look natural on the skin, but you will have to pay special attention to application to achieve a truly invisible look. If you are heavy handed or tend to sweep powder on with a brush, it could look dry or visible on the skin. 

Can fair skin use 20 Clair?
 One of my concerns was if the shade 20 clair was appropriate for very light or fair skin. I'm neutral and very fair (L'Oreal True Match N1 or Giorgio Armani Luminous Silk 2) and was worried 20 clair would be too dark. As you can see in the swatch below, 20 Clair works for fair skin. I tapped the powder on heavily for a swatch because a sheer swatch is translucent on my skin.

Update: Who owns who? Corporate ownership of global makeup brands

My mega post on the corporate ownership of cosmetics brands is one of the most popular ever on my blog, so with all of the new news lately I thought it was time for an update.


Unsurprisingly, L'Oreal and Estee Lauder have continued with substantial M&A activity, notably with L'Oreal's purchase of It Cosmetics and Estee Lauder's purchase of Too Faced and Becca. Shiseido has also been busy, creating a new prestige makeup division and purchasing Laura Mercier. E.l.f. has gone public under the leadership of TPG Growth.

The post update includes:

• Updated 2016 information
• New graphics accounting for 2016 news
• New information on which makeup brands are not owned by a conglomerate or private equity company
• Reader requests to include new brands

Click here to read the updated post! If you have any questions or requests for info on a brand you are curious about, please leave me a comment. 

Is it a dupe? Urban Decay sin vs Stila kitten eyeshadow

I totally get why Stila Kitten and Urbay Decay Sin are popular eyeshadow shades - both are shimmery champagne nudes that light up the eye. What I don't get is why people online treat them like dupes. I have owned both for a long time and they serve totally different purposes in my collection.

Let's take a look at some swatches and the differences will make themselves clear.